Hand knitted socks

When I told a friend that I started hand knitting socks, they said 'how pointless when you can buy 5 pairs for a pound'. I think that they were missing the point. There is little more luxurious than slipping on a pair of soft, lovingly hand knitted socks. The ones I have made have mostly been quite chunky bed / slipper socks. This makes them a bit more different from bought socks, and also means they are quicker and less fiddly to knit!

I have gifted two pairs to friends so far, perhaps they were just being kind but they seemed chuffed...

Chunky hand knitted bed socks

For your first pair, I would recommend using a 'super chunky' double knit yarn. I used a soft blend of acrylic and wool, so that they would feel luxurious but be machine washable. You'll need about 150g, depending on the size. I have UK women's size 7 feet but the pattern is easily adjusted.

You'll need:

• 150g double knit yarn
• Four double pointed needles: the biggest  could get were 6mm, this worked fine
• Yarn needle

Instructions

This project needs a few more techniques than was covered in previous blog posts, with knitting in the round and heel and toe shaping. I was quite worried about this but managed to complete  my first pair (above) without any help from my aunt or grandmother so it wasn't that hard!

Step 1

Step 3 - first stitch in the round

1. Cast on 20 stitches across 3 of the 4 double pointed needles (dpn). This is probably the most difficult part and take care than stitches don't slip off one needle which you're working on the next. Split stitched roughly evenly between the needles 1, 2 and 3. 
2. Make sure the 'bobbley' bit of the stitches are face up, and that the yarn isn't twisted between the needles. 
3. Continue to knit in the round. This means use the fourth needle to continue your knitting by transferring stitches from needle one onto it, through knitting. When you finish the row this will liberate needle one, which you can then use to continue knitting the next row on needle two and so on. The first row is quite tricky, but this is by far the hardest part. You don't need to alternate between purl and knit when you are knitting in the round, which means that once you get going it is quite relaxing! 



Step 3 - after first two rows in the round

4. When you have knitted about 4 inches of circular knit, increase by two stitches. Do this by starting to knit the stitch as you would usually, but once you have wrapped the yarn and put the needle to the front, before you slip the stitch off the needle, reinsert the needle into the back of the stitch and wrap the yarn again. This will create two stitches out of one and is called 'knitting into the front and back of the stitch'. Do this twice, 10 stitches apart. 
   
   
   
   
   

   

   Step 4 - knitting into back of stitch (1) 

   
   

   

   Final stage of step 4

   

   Step 4 - knitting into back of stitch (2)
5. Now it's time to turn the heel. You now have 22 stitches, transfer 11 so they are on one needle. Knit across 10 stitches, one before the end of the row. 

   

   Step 5

   
   

   

   Step 6 (a)

   
   

   

   Step 6 (b)

   
   

   

   Step 6 (c)

6. Bring yarn forward between needles, slip last stitch to right needle (a), bring yarn to rear of work (b), slip titch back to left needle (c). There is now a wrap around the base of the stitch. 
7. Turn the work and purl in the other direction until there is one stitch remaining. Take yarn backwards between needles, slip last stitch to right needle, bring yarn to front, slip stitch back to left needle. Turn work. 
8. Knit until one stitch before the 'wrapped' stitch. Repeat step 6. Continue until you have three wrapped stitches on each end. 

   

   Step 9 (a)

   
   
   
   

   

   Step 9 (b)

   
   

   

   Step 9 (c)

9. Now you need to re-knit your wrapped stitches. Knit to the first wrapped stitch (a) and slip that stitch onto the right needle, using the left needle, pick up the wrap (b) and place the slipped stitch back to the left needle. Knit the stitch and the wrapped stitch together, through the back loop (c). Bring yarn forward, slip last stitch to right needle, bring yarn back to rear of work, slip stitch back to left needle. Turn work. Repeat on the purl side.
10. Repeat step 9, transferring two wraps when there are two wrapped stitches until all wraps have been knitted together. 

    

    The heel is finished

11. Continue knitting the sock in the round until the sock measures 4cm less than the length of the foot.
12. Knit the toe in the same way as the heel, making sure that your 11 stitches are on the upper side of the sock so the seam is less visible when you finish. 
13. When the toe is finished, slip stitches from the other two needles onto one so there are 11 on each. Knit together with kitchener stitch.

You may have some little holes around joins but just sew them up with your yarn. Now, repeat the whole pattern for the other sock!

Variations

You can use this basic pattern to make different socks. For the cream pair I used very chunky wool so only cast on 18 stitches. The rest of the pattern was the same. 

For the grey pair, I used 3mm dp needles as the yarn was finer. I cast on 32 stitches and increased by 6 instead of two for the foot. I also did some ribbing at the top. This is achieved by alternating two purl stitches with two knit stitches and looks nice as well as creating stretch around the ankle. 

 Good luck! Next I'm going to try cable knit socks and jumpers!

Helen x